Getting over there was kind of tight because I started my vacation with a Bruce Springsteen concert on Thursday night (amazing - they put on a SHOW). Friday I flew to Iceland and stayed the night in an AirBNB that was close to the Cathedral pick up. Pick up was at 7 am and I was a little nervous about that because that's 3 am East Coast time, but with not sleeping much after the Springsteen concert, and the flight and all, I was fine. I got to the pick up spot and was all excited because there were a bunch of hikers who were around my vintage and didn't look like super hikers who were all going with my same company. But then I learned they were sleeping in the huts, not camping, and were in a different group. Sigh.
Anyhow, we got to Landmannalauger and did a warm up hike up Blahnukur Volcano. Apparently the guide company does this as a test hike to make sure that everyone will be able to make it - I was a little offended at that idea when I heard about it on FB, but having done the hike I see why. I didn't think that Blahnukur was that hard - it was a million switchbacks and a lot of wind - I was breathing hard for sure, but it wasn't so difficult. There were two people in the other group, though, that struggled like crazy with the hike, and I think their tour guide pursuaded them to go back to Reykjavik. Anyhow, the hike was really increadible, with views of geothermal activity, these crazy mountains, and on a former volcano. The wind was really strong and there was a drop to the side so that if you slipped it wouldn't be good. It's usually a loop hike, but the guide decided we would go down the way we came up because it was super muddy on the loop. There is a hot spring right by the hut, and I spent like an hour in it, until my fingers were like prunes and I had to get out. After we stayed the night, and the camping group was able to sleep in the huts because they weren't full (the hut was really nice, but the beds were one long bunk that slept 8 in very close quarters. TBH, I didn't love it.)
The next day we started on our Laugavegur hike. The first day we were hiking 15 miles with about 3000 feet of elevation gain, so it was the biggest day. I had really built it up in my head as a Big Thing, and it was hard, but not too hard. I was kind of nervous about how fast the group would hike, but to my very happy surprise, we went at a pace that was a little faster than I normally would have, but nothing I couldn't keep up with - in fact I was part of the front pack! The hike took us through a lava field, up a mountain to the highlands, and to an ice cave and geothermal rivers. The scenery was amazing, and every time we went up or down there were switchbacks! We carried two sandwiches for lunch - I had a cheese sandwich and a Icelandic PB and fluff, which were delicious!
At lunch time we got to the first hut which was amazing. The tour company doesn't like to stay there, and I can see why. We had perfect weather, but still it was kind of cold and windy - with bad weather it would be freezing! It was amazing eating lunch there, though, just relaxing and enjoying the scenery. My feet were a little tired, but I felt good to do the second half. After the hut the hike was across a flat plain, but there were ravines that we had to go up and down, some of which were really steep and muddy. The day ended with about 1500 descent over less than a mile, which is pretty downhill. Again, though, there were switchbacks the whole way down, and not a ton of rocks, and I was so excited about how managable the trail was that I just did my fastest and by the end I was running down the trail and got far ahead of everyone. After, a couple people said they were inspired by how joyful I looked flying down the mountain, with my poles over my head - one woman said that I was "mountain goating it." The white mountains are great prep for other hiking.
We stayed the next night at Alftavatn Lake, where we did get to camp. Setting up the tents was a little crazy, because they were all different and difficult to put up. I have to confess, I was excited to have a little personal space to introvert and relax. For dinner the veg food was fake duck in powdered asperigus soup, which was so disgusting I could barely make myself eat it. There was also lots of bread and butter, and I chowed on that. It rained during the night, but inside the tent was dry.
The next day was the "easiest" of the hike. I found it to be the hardest for some reason - probably because it was the "easiest" but it wasn't exactly easy. We had a couple river crossings that we waded through (we had one on day 2 as well) and the guide told us to look forward, not at the water, and take our time, which worked really well. We hiked though a long lava field with no trees, and when I had to pee I just ducked behind a rock and kind of exposed myself. Iceland felt huge, and I felt really small. There were a few in the group who were struggling, and so the guide told the rest of us to go ahead. My feet were killing me, so I took off as fast as I could to get to the campground and take off my boots. When I got there, it was georgous! There was more fake meat for dinner, I made myself a grilled cheese instead.
For the last day, we had to leave really early because the bus was going to pick us up in Þórsmörk at 3 pm, and we had 9 miles to hike. The tour guide decided to send the slowest hikers off early, and the faster ones would do cleanup and the dishes, and catch up. I kind of liked the idea of a leasurly morning hike, and asked if I could go too, but the guide said no, I needed to help with the dishes. At first I was pissed, but then I was so happy because he considered me to be one of the stronger hikers! When does that happen? The last day of hiking was so pretty - with lots of moss and colors, and then ending in a "forest" with some really resiliant trees. One of the hikers hurt his knee and so we were able to hike our own hike for most of the day, and I was way out front. There were some beautiful gorges with sketchy bridges to cross, and a huge glacier. At the end, though, I was so happy to stop hiking! My feet were killing me, and my calves were really tight. We sat in Þórsmörk for about an hour, enjoying the scenery, and then the bus came and we had to head back to the city. All and all, a really nice hike, I'm so glad I went!
I got alltrails to work again - I had to close all the other apps on my phone, and it was fine. Split times were way faster than usual, that's for sure!
Day 1:
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